How This Little Northern Lass Found Her Place in the World of Surfing

Water signs

I’ve always been lucky enough to live by the water. I grew up in a house near the ocean, where I could see the sea from my bedroom window. As a child, I’d often find myself peering out to make sure it was still there. I’d bounce as high as I could on my trampoline just to catch a shimmer on the water or spot a boat on the horizon. Being a water sign, I loved being by the sea — it was calming, refreshing, and felt natural to me.

But this isn’t a story about a grom who learned to surf before she could walk — far from it. It wasn’t until I moved away from home to a landlocked city for university that I even knew what surfing was. Make it make sense?!

Who was I becoming?

I fell into surfing by total chance. It wasn’t on my radar, and I’d never shown interest in the sport before. My only reference was Blue Crush, which I’d watched as a child. It was my first week at university — Freshers’ Week — new city, new faces, so why not try a new sport? I was walking around the sports hall with a new friend, actively looking for the cheerleading society. I knew I wanted to try something new, but more than that, I wanted to feel part of something. I craved a friendship group, a support system, a community to help shape me into the woman I was becoming.

We signed up and just as we were about to leave, my friend turned to me and asked if we could look for the surf society. Confused, she explained that they ran a trip to Newquay every October for a competition called BUCS. She didn’t want to compete, but she’d heard the weekend was loads of fun. I went along with it and signed up - I’d never been to Cornwall, and as I was starting this new chapter why not go on a new adventure?

As the Newquay weekend approached, I had to make a decision. My friend — the one I’d signed up with — had dropped out. Was I really going to go somewhere I’d never been, alone, with people I’d never met? It felt way out of my comfort zone. I was feeling shy, and I’d already made amazing friends — did I need more? More importantly, this was a sport I knew nothing about, with no background in. It seemed too crazy to go ahead with it… yet something in my gut told me I should.

That feeling doesn’t happen to me often, but when it does, it’s too strong to ignore.

The Magical Gut Feeling

Off the top of my head, I can think of a handful of times I’ve felt this kind of gut feeling — and I’ll probably mention a few of them as we dive deeper into this story. I don’t know how to fully describe it, but when something feels meant for you, it’s like magic. It’s powerful. A force that drives you. A friend once described it as “following your butterflies” and I’ve never forgot it since.

I’m a big believer in “what will be, will be” — that you should wake up and go with the flow instead of forcing anything. But I also believe that what’s meant for you will never pass you by. That’s why when I felt that magic gut feeling, it was time to follow the butterflies to Newquay with a group of amazing strangers — strangers who introduced me to a life I never thought possible.

My first surfing experience? A crowded beach lineup on a 9ft foamie, surrounded by 100 other beginners flapping around. I even had a board hit me, leaving a massive bump on my forehead all weekend. But I’d found my people and I’d found my froth.

Finding My People

The next four years at university, I threw myself into surfing. I went on all the surf trips — France, Morocco, Lanzarotte — and joined every social my liver would allow. In second year, I became the Social Secretary (probably thanks to my loud Northern voice and love of a party more than any actual surfing talent).

But the truth was: surfing, for me, wasn’t about becoming the best at the sport. It was about the community it gave me. The people I met through the surf society — people I wouldn’t have crossed paths with otherwise — became my escape. They offered something deeper than just partying. It was a version of myself I loved, but wasn’t quite ready to fully embrace. I wanted to be a part of that lifestyle, but I had no idea how to sustain it and it felt like it was slipping away. Was surfing really just going to be a fun uni-phase I’d one day look back on?

Saved by the pandemic

After graduation, I did the classic post-uni move and flew to Australia to meet some friends. I’d love to say this is the chapter where I surfed famous breaks and fully embraced the surfer lifestyle… but honestly, it wasn’t. Australia was just an extension of my uni years. I met incredible people and had so much fun — but we partied too hard and lived unsustainably. I never picked up a surfboard once.

Ten months in, COVID hit. The borders were closing, and the government advised all backpackers to return home — or risk being stuck in Australia. Before COVID, I was in a dark place. I couldn’t keep up with the lifestyle I’d fallen into - I was spiralling. I know this wasn’t the case for everyone, but I truly believe the pandemic saved my life. It forced me to return to the UK and actually think about my future.

I was going through that classic mid-twenties breakdown — spat out of the safety of education into the big wide world. What now? Where would I live? What career should I pursue?

Where my life changed

Then I saw a Facebook ad. Star Surf Camps were hiring for their 2021 summer team. Remember that magic gut feeling? It was back. I knew — in my bones — this was meant for me. I craved the lifestyle I’d experienced before. I needed to reconnect with the version of myself I’d left behind. I’d been in England for a year, and I was ready for a new adventure.

It’s easy to say, “This is where my life changed.” But it truly was. Yes, the camp still had that party energy, but it was also full of early risers, sunrise chasers, and surf frothers. People who could party and wake up early to surf. I tried it… but soon realised you often had to pick one. I wasn’t going to go down the same path again so this time, I picked surfing.

I felt like the best version of myself when I put down the beer and picked up the board. My confidence grew — in and out of the water. I was becoming healthier, clearer, more grounded. I was starting to like myself again.

A Surf Sister for Life

But I can’t take full credit for this new version of me. I owe so much to the community around me — and especially to one person: my best friend, Courtenay.

We met on my very first day at the camp. She greeted us newbies in a bucket hat and dungarees, and immediately, that magic gut feeling hit again. I knew I was supposed to meet this girl. And I knew she was going to be important in my life.

Four years later, our friendship is unbreakable. She’s more than a best friend — she’s my sister. We’ve worked summers at camp and spent winters chasing waves around the world. We’ve sailed oceans on tiny boats, hiked mountains with no equipment, lived in caves without plumbing, and survived off coconuts in the jungle. We’ve laughed, cried, and grown together through it all.

The Beginning of a New Chapter

Someone once asked me to sum up Courtenay in one word. I said “annoying” (joking, obviously). But truthfully, you can’t sum her up in one word. She’s the most motivated, determined, hilarious, intelligent, and caring person I know. She’s constantly encouraging me and lifting me up — whether it’s reaching the top shelf for biscuits, fixing my Northern grammar, or pushing me out of my comfort zone.

Courtenay is the most supportive person I know and I am my best self with her. And just recently, she put the biggest shiny bow on top of our friendship when she asked me to be her business partner.

And that’s how Oumono Club was born. (Magic gut feeling, right on cue.)

Community, sisterhood and support

Looking back, every decision — from saying yes to Newquay, to feeling lost in Australia — led me here. I’ve got a long way to go in terms of surfing, but for me, it’s never been about becoming the best surfer. It’s always been about the lifestyle and community. I just wanted to feel part of something.

Funny how I went looking for that in cheerleading (spoiler: I didn’t make the team) — and found it in surfing.

Surfing has given me purpose, direction, and a community I never knew I needed. Every decision I’ve made over the past few years has revolved around surfing and the people I’ve met through it. And now, I want to help others feel that same magic — to feel part of something, to find community, sisterhood and support. No judgement. Just love.

That’s what Oumono Club is all about.

We hope you’ll join us and experience the magic, sisterhood, and adventure we’ve found in this beautiful surfing life.

Big hugs,

Mykaela

Oumono Club Co-Founder